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So you’ve bought a wetsuit and a board, now what?

Author

Craig Jarvis

Craig Jarvis’ surfing travels have taken him to many great surf destinations and a great many beds (the hospital kind – don’t get excited). He caught malaria while surfing off the jungles of Java, and his catalogue of mishaps includes three tropical diseases unidentified by the Hospital for Tropical Diseases in London, a broken arm, a broken elbow, four bouts of life-threatening dysentery, a torn groin while surfing in Ireland, a wasting disease contracted in Chile and a serious case of boils that attached themselves to him somewhere in Indonesia.

Among his journalistic endeavours, he has been field editor of The Surfer’s Path, editor of Zigzag and is now editor-at-large of Wavescape. His favourite story as a freelance contributor concerned an oversexed male dolphin’s libidinous interaction with surfers, published in the Australian surf magazine Tracks.

Craig currently lives in a house with a sea view over a nice wave near Cape Town. His days consist of walking his three surf hounds on the beach, reading, writing, going surfing and, in the evenings, sitting and watching surfers after pouring himself a stiff Scotch. It’s a tough life, but someone has to live it.

"If you’re a kook, especially if you’re a kook, you will buy this book, for it reveals the many secrets and tricks of the surfing subculture. I believe it will soon become a classic."

DEREK REILLY, EDITOR, STAB MAGAZINE

Read a free chapter now

Discover how and where surfing started, the importance of the wiliwili tree, and the role Jack London played in making the sport cool. Just as importantly, learn about tail shapes, fins, rockers and rails.

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